Le Tricorne
Spring Summer ´08 is our fourth collection inspired by Diaghilev’s Ballets Russes who in Le Tricorne, as in so many other ballets, brought together the most progressive artists of early 20th century. The plot of Le Tricorne, written by the Spanish avant-garde dramatist Gregorio Martinez Sierra, was based on a 19th century comic novel. It tells the adventures of a miller, his ravishing wife and the wicked governor who tries to seduce her – a story of misunderstanding and confusion where the love triangle is brought out in the title, Le Tricorne, ‘the three-cornered hat’.
The dancer Félix Fernández García was hired to initiate the Russian dancers into the passion of Spanish dance – but his own passion for Diaghilev led him to insanity when Diaghilev favoured another for the miller’s role. The ballet’s Spanish elements were further strengthened by Manuel de Fallas’ music and Picasso’s set and costumes.
Our theme is Spain, bullfighting and flamenco as used by Picasso in his designs for Le Tricorne where he so playfully returned to his Andalusian roots. Our silhouettes are inspired by contrasts: the sharp tailoring of the Torero costumes and the flowing silhouette of the flamenco dancers, underlined in such diverse materials as silk chiffon, satins and stiff canvas.
Our palette is drawn from the rich embroideries on the Torero costumes that we translate into contemporary elements such as silver panels, metallic leather and colour gradient prints. In the teasing spirit of the ballet – and with a touch of García’s passion – we mix strong contrasts between matt and shiny and revel in theatrical Trompe l’oeil effects by turning metal and hand drawn pleats into digital prints.
The dancer Félix Fernández García was hired to initiate the Russian dancers into the passion of Spanish dance – but his own passion for Diaghilev led him to insanity when Diaghilev favoured another for the miller’s role. The ballet’s Spanish elements were further strengthened by Manuel de Fallas’ music and Picasso’s set and costumes.
Our theme is Spain, bullfighting and flamenco as used by Picasso in his designs for Le Tricorne where he so playfully returned to his Andalusian roots. Our silhouettes are inspired by contrasts: the sharp tailoring of the Torero costumes and the flowing silhouette of the flamenco dancers, underlined in such diverse materials as silk chiffon, satins and stiff canvas.
Our palette is drawn from the rich embroideries on the Torero costumes that we translate into contemporary elements such as silver panels, metallic leather and colour gradient prints. In the teasing spirit of the ballet – and with a touch of García’s passion – we mix strong contrasts between matt and shiny and revel in theatrical Trompe l’oeil effects by turning metal and hand drawn pleats into digital prints.
Photos by Sergio Assabbi